寻找失落的汉服之美

淡月咏梅

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<TD><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12px"><STRONG><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.tianhan.com.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2005-8/200588162929325.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><BR><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.tianhan.com.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2006-3/200633155043560.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><BR><BR><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.show-lo.com/showloclub/iewdifa9df/2006-2/200621714394423503.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><BR><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.tianhan.com.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2006-1/200619175125994.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.hanminzu.com/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-10/2005101922132229457.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><BR><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.hanminzu.com/bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-10/2005103113433141645.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);><BR><BR></STRONG>
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<TD>一 前言<BR>    中华民族历史悠久，文化博大精深。作为中华民族主体的汉族，更是缔造了五千年的辉煌，优美动听的语言文字，浩如烟海的典籍文献，决胜千里的兵法谋略，天人合一的自然哲学，仁政天下的民本思想······片言难尽其详。<BR>    黄帝垂衣裳而天下治，开我衣冠之国；周公明制式而后世循，始我礼仪之邦。汉服作为汉族人民的民族服装，从黄帝起，历夏，商，周（春秋战国），秦，汉，三国两晋，南北朝，隋，唐，五代，宋，蒙元，明，并影响了日本，朝鲜等国，延续五千年之久。<BR>    作为日本礼服的和服就是在中国唐代，从吴越地区引入的汉服发展而来。至今日本仍称和服为吴服。<BR>    清初的“剔发易服”，“十从十不从”，让汉服仅存于僧侣优伶间，中断达三百六十年之久。正是由于汉族民族服饰的一度缺位，在雅典奥运会开幕式上，当其他各国代表团身穿缤纷艳丽的民族服饰出场时，中国代表团则以西服代替；在闭幕式上，与大唐盛世相隔千年的旗袍则以“唐装”自居，尽失华夏风范而遭国人批判。<BR>    如今中华强盛，华夏复兴，汉服如幽兰逢春，再次回到了汉族广大人民中间。宽衣大袖，洒脱飘逸的汉服是汉民族优秀文化的代表之一，寄托了华夏民族的历史文化情感，是华夏民族精神不灭的象征。<BR><BR>二 特征<BR>    汉服的以交领右衽为主，兼有圆领，直领。从形制上看，主要有“衣裳”制（上衣下裳，裳在古代指下裙）、“深衣”制（上衣下裳连体）、“襦裙”制（襦，即短衣）、袴褶制（上短衣，下长裤）等。衣裳，深衣为礼服；襦裙为女装。袴褶为常服。<BR>    汉服无扣，系带，宽衣大袖，线条柔美流畅。<BR><BR><BR>三 汉服分类图示<BR><BR>1 衣裳<BR>衣裳，上衣下裳，衣一般是交領大袖的,裳的结构类似裙子,衣裳制是华夏民族最早的服裝形式．為了表示尊重传统，衣裳制被作为最高级别的礼服形式。<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143349504.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143349504.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>作为礼服的衣裳<BR><BR>2 深衣<BR>上衣下裳相连，有曲裾和直裾之分。曲裾深衣后片衣襟接长，加长后的衣襟形成三角，穿时绕至背后，再用腰带系扎，即"续衽钩边"。深衣被儒家赋予了很多理念与意义義，成为文人的基本裝．<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143358839.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143358839.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>直裾 广场<BR><BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143428839.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143428839.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>直裾 袁崇焕祠前<BR><BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143457110.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143457110.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>直裾 箫<BR><BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143509398.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143509398.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>女士深衣<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143517140.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143517140.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>曲裾深衣，摄于西湖湖滨长廊<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143624859.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143624859.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>箫声送夕阳<BR><BR>3 袍服<BR>袍服一直被当作礼服。以大袖为多，袖口有明显的收敛，领、袖都饰有花边。袍服的领子以袒领为主，大多裁成鸡心式，穿时露出内衣。袍服下摆，常打一排密裥，有的还裁制成月牙弯曲状。里面一般还衬有白色的内衣。<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143654882.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143654882.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>灰地菱纹袍服图<BR><BR><BR>4 襦裙<BR>上短衣，下裙，裙以带系扎。有短襦，半臂，大袖衫。<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143654979.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143654979.jpg" onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>半臂，襦裙<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143656209.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143656209.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>大袖对襟纱罗衫、长裙、披帛<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143700604.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143700604.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>襦裙 摄于西湖<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143719447.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143719447.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>襦裙 箫<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143747610.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143747610.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>襦裙 琴<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143801593.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143801593.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>襦裙 剑<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143810928.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143810928.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>褙子 刀<BR><BR>四 汉服常服简笔图<BR>（汉网欧阳雨曦绘制）<BR>1 衣裳连制类（深衣）<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819897.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819897.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR><BR>2 衣裳分开类<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819302.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819302.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819478.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819478.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR><BR>3 上下通裁类<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819784.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819784.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR><BR>4 圆领类<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819189.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143819189.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR><BR>5 背心类<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820815.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820815.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A> <BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820248.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820248.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A> <BR><BR><BR>五 汉服宣传活动的部分合影照片<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820651.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143820651.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于岳庙<BR><BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143853179.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143853179.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于云栖竹径<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143928284.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143928284.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于云栖<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143941193.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522143941193.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于杭州<BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144000408.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144000408.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于深圳 <BR><BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144012906.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144012906.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR>摄于上海<BR><BR>清明节前夕，秋瑾墓旁，绿草如茵，汉韵灼灼<BR><A href="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144030350.jpg" target=_blank><IMG onmouseover="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" style="CURSOR: hand" onclick=java src="http://www.1911-10-10.com/Article/UploadFiles/200505/20050522144030350.jpg" width=520 onload="java script:if(this.width>520)this.width=520;" align=absMiddle border=0 script:window&#46;open(this&#46;src);></A><BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></SPAN></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></SPAN>

淡月咏梅

[这个贴子最后由淡月咏梅在 2006/06/29 07:42pm 第 2 次编辑]

淡月咏梅

<EMBED style="FILTER: gray()" src=http://www.ancientry.net/music/guanshanyue.wma width=0 height=0 type=audio/mpeg showstatusbar="1" volume="0" loop="-1" autostart="1">

依露云珠

很美：）
也想 白衣飘飘，做湖畔吹萧的女子。